Thursday, April 29, 2010

April 17

Noting that Saturday was one of the few sunny days we had in Kyoto, and in an attempt to cram as much in as possible (brace yourselves), we took off early for the Heian Jingu shrine.


When we got there, we were approached by a Japanese girl who asked if we spoke English. She explained that she was a student at Kyoto University, studying English, and that she was part of a club that comes to the shrines and offers English speakers free tours as a way to practice her English. She was way cute and her explanations made the shrine much more interesting.


The cherry blossoms on these branches are actually paper - apparently you can pay a small fee to get a fortune at just about every temple/shrine, and according to our guide, if you get a good fortune you keep it in your wallet/someplace close to you. If you get a bad fortune, you should tie it to a tree at the temple and leave it there. During the spring, they use pink paper for the fortunes, so that the bad fortunes tied to the tree look like cherry blossoms.


These two trees are very interesting. One is a cherry tree and one is an evergreen fruit tree. The cherry tree, with its springtime sakura blossoms, symbolizes the ephemeral nature of mortal life. Just like the sakura blossom, it is only there for a short, beautiful time, then is gone. The evergreen tree, however, represents the eternal nature of the spirit. The two trees are at the entrance to the shrine itself.



The shrine itself has three parts, the outermost, the middle and the innermost. The outermost is available to the public most of the time. The middle section is only available to the public during certain ceremonies, such as the various coming of age ceremonies for children. The innermost section is for priests/shrine workers only.

Behind the shrine, there was a very beautiful stroll garden. Stroll gardens are gardens that are inteded to be walked through... the landscaping is such that as you walk around, certain things are revealed in a certain order for a certain effect. Not sure I'm explaining that well. In any case, there were still some sakura on these trees which was nice.



You can kind of see what I was talking about here... even though this is part of the same garden that couldn't have been on more than an acre of land, the landscaping along this part of the path makes you feel like you're walking through a forest.


This is called the "Dragon Bridge." According to our guide, the stones are supposed to look like a dragon, due to their wavelike placement. Due to the reflection of the sky in the water below, walking across the bridge is supposed to feel like riding a dragon across the sky.


This is a famous bridge. It is symetrically constructed, which symbolizes eternal life/nature. The pheonix statue atop the middle portion is said to protect the bridge from fire. The pheonix thing is interesting, because in western mythology, the pheonix also symbolizes eternal life/nature.



More pretty pictures:



After saying goodbye to our cute little guide, we took the Philosopher's Path from the Heian Jingu shrine to the Ginkaku Ji Buddist temple.


Apparently several famous Japanese philosophers liked to meander this riverside path, and there are supposed to be several famous land marks along the path. I didn't really know enough about Japanese historical figures/literature to recognize any of the landmarks. I did, however, notice Samurai Dog:


Pretty rad.


Apparently a lot of cats like to hang out on the path as well. There was a guy feeding them fishcake, so we got to see a bunch of them congregated. Made me miss my Selphie.


In any case, the Philosopher's path was very pretty.




Ginkaku-ji was constructed by Yoshimasa, a Japanese ruler of some sort, as a place of retirement, and included in his will that he wanted it to become a Buddhist temple after his death. It is known as the place where the "Higashiyama Culture" was founded and cultivated. Again, I'm not very pro on these types of things, but my understanding of Higashiyama Culture, is the traditional Japanese arts and aesthetic that embody Zen Buddist concepts. Examples would be the tea ceremony, simple architecture, rock gardens, subtle beauty, etc. Anyway, Ginkaku ji is said to embody this aesthetic.


You can see that it's much more subdued than other temples we've been to. Here's a rock garden.


It's said that in the moonlight, the white sand, as well as the roof tiles, look like silver, hence the name "Silver Pavillion."



This is an example of what is called "Borrowed scenery" in Japanese gardens. The tree covered mountain in the back there is not part of the garden itself, but the garden is crafted to include/feature the mountain.



The palace was nice, and we had a headset to explain things to us, but I didn't absorb the information as well as I would have it had been presented to me by a cute little Japanese girl. Just sayin. Also, we were a little unimpressed with this Yoshimasa guy, who essentially started this big war that destroyed most of Kyoto because he didn't want to rule... kind reminded us of this guy:



Only a few more hours of daylight left! Hurry! Rush to Kiyomizu Temple. This was a popular one.


This time we were approached by a whole set of schoolgirls wishing to assist us on a tour! Score!


They were a bit more shy, and would often argue about who was going to present next, which was really funny. In any case, time for a few anecdotes. This platform overlooks a ravine of sorts filled with lots of trees. Apparently it was a very popular place for suicides long ago (love suicides I believe?)... but the suicides were often unsuccessful because there were so many trees at the bottom of the ravine that they were just caught in the branches... D'oh!


These three fountains give you good luck in studies, wealth or love, depending on which one you drink. There was a long line though... so I guess wealth will just have to wait...


This was a very popular part of the shrine, as I believe it was dedicated to a goddess of love.



These stones are called "love stones."


You start at one stone and with your eyes closed walk to the other one. If you make it, your love life with your current partner will be very good. If you don't, then you've got bad times ahead. If someone assists you, your relationship with your current partner will be good with the assistance of that person. The area was very crowded, so I don't know how I would make it across without the assistance of many Japanese strangers. The implications that that would make about Erik and my relationship is... peculiar (Marriage saved by dozens of Japanese strangers!). One of our tour guides, however, told me, "Don't worry. You don't need that" and giggled, glancing at Erik. Apparently girl talk is a language that knows no boundaries.

Finally, we sprinted over to the Gion Kabujerno theater to see the Miyako Odori - a show put on by the geisha of Gion a few times a day for the month of April. Apparently the tradition was started by the mayor of Kyoto to boost the spirits of Kyoto citizens after it lost its status as the capital.


Here's the inside of the theater:


They didn't let us take any pictures of the actual performance, so please entertain yourself with this picture from the internet...


This is actually from the show we saw, so yeah, just pretend I took it.

1 comment:

  1. That is very cool you made it to Ginkaku-ji! Most tourists only go to Kinkaku-ji, which is an impressive one, but I think Gingaku-ji is more serene and pretty. Kiyomizu is also a great one; they have a crazy ultraviolet sanitation system set up for the shared drinking cups. I also remember doing the love stone walk while I was there... don't remember what my result was, but I was just a young teen at the time XD That is so cool you were mobbed by those schoolgirls XD

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